Mandarin Oriental Qianmen, Beijing is located within a hutong, just minutes away from the Forbidden City

Looking up towards a magnificent 130-year-old maple tree in the expansive lobby courtyard, Mandarin Oriental Qianmen, Beijing is aglow with autumn, as red and gold leaves fall against a backdrop of clear blue skies.
Getting to experience the sublime seasonal setting comes by first crossing an ancient stone threshold into the heart of the stellar new property, Mandarin Oriental’s 10th in Greater China.
The sense of zen-like calm and quiet is immediately striking, partly because the hotel is just a few minutes’ walk from sights including Beijing’s legendary Forbidden City, but also because it sits amidst an original hutong neighbourhood.
THE HUTONG
The hotel’s communal areas and 42 exquisite private courtyard houses are spread across a matrix of laneways, sitting side-by-side those belonging to local people, meaning that cultural interaction literally comes on the doorstep. Buggies are an option to whisk you to and from the hotel’s restaurants, bar, spa and more, but the alternative of short walks let you get a real feel for local life.
A stroll through the narrow alleys might include cats dozing lazily, lanterns swaying, unexpected grapevines growing overhead and children waving as they walk to school. The rattle of mahjong tiles, wafting sweet aromas from the local bakery and the utter charm of seeing an elderly gentleman, walking slowly, a polished wooden case against his chest holding his pet cricket, are all added to the travel memory bank.
COURTYARD HOUSES
If the setting is special then the 42 original courtyard houses, impeccably restored, are like nothing else in China. They are all private, accessed through discreet entrances, and range in size from an already expansive 800 sq ft to a pretty extraordinary 5,285 sq ft.
At the doorway of each, original carved stone pillars reflect the role of the original owners, whether they were in government, business, education or the military. Even the number of steps showed their place in the hierarchy. Many were houses belonging to merchants or students from Chinese provinces who would move to Beijing and train in the civil service.
Once inside, lanterns light the way along passageways that lead to courtyards where trees or other flora allow you to reflect on the season, while a number have separate tearooms for contemplation and relaxation.
Some allow for outside dining and entertaining, none more so than the jaw-dropping former home of a descendant of TCM brand Tong Ren Tang, today known as the Peking Mansion, offering more than 5,000 sq ft of accommodation.
It’s clearly unmatched amidst Beijing hotels for spaciousness and exclusivity, thanks to a master courtyard house with one bedroom, a tearoom, living room and dining room, in addition to a separate building for service or security staff. Features include intricately carved original stonework, original wooden pillars and beams, thrilling pieces by contemporary Chinese artists and works in porcelain, cloisonné and metal.
As with all the courtyard houses, en-suite marble bathrooms feature Japanese-style Kohler facilities and bath products from Editions de Parfum Frederic Malle, perfect as you soak in your generous bathtub with its relaxing views of the courtyard garden. Burgundy leather washbags branded with the hotel’s name and the Mandarin Oriental fan – yours to keep – unfold into four pockets filled with sustainable amenities.
Books on Chinese history, design and architecture such as Once Upon a Time in the Imperial Palace or The Walls and Gates of Peking can be enjoyed with a glass of sparkling tea or a locally-inspired cocktail crafted from your bar. Handily, a butler is on speed dial or WeChat to mix it for you.
DINING AND DRINKING
Such is the beguiling mix of heritage, culture, history, luxury and technology, pulling yourself away from the courtyard houses is an effort – but more experiences await, including three restaurants and a bar.
The fact that Vicini means ‘neighbourhood’ in Italian feels apt given the hotel’s hutong location. It also speaks to Italy’s local tastes and dishes which feature in a menu that spans the country, but always with pinpoint precision in plates that are never fussy.
Service from a warm, young and multilingual team ensures that the relaxed space, especially on the lovely terrace which overlooks the hutong rooftops, has a relaxed feel. Go for the brilliant calamari with confit tomatoes, capers and Kalanmata olives, while you’d be hard pushed to find more authentic pastas. They also serve both Italian and local breakfasts with favourites like abalone congee, pan-fried dumplings and even donkey sliders.
For visitors to southern China, chef Fei is already a Cantonese and Chaozhou culinary hero thanks to his two Michelin-starred restaurant at Mandarin Oriental, Guangzhou. At Yan Garden by chef Fei, the gorgeous interiors amidst a series of courtyard houses make an ultra-elegant backdrop to outstanding plates like lobster with leek oil and the most perfectly cooked roast pigeon that I can remember. Dim sum, soups and siu mai are other standouts.
Maple Lounge is a sublime spot adjacent to the lobby for afternoon tea, with seats outside underneath a 100-year-old toon tree – I’m told that Beijingers love to fry its leaves in springtime and add them to dishes including pancakes.
Then Tiao is a sexy, moodily-lit two-storey bar serving killer cocktails such as ‘Brief Autumn’ which unites Cognac, coffee, Vermouth and local baiju in beautiful symphony. Wines, beers, mocktails and locally inspired food keep the night rolling late and explain why it has become Beijing’s hottest bar.
One tip? Don’t try and learn to play mahjong after a couple of cocktails – it’s way harder than you think.
WELLNESS WITH DISTINCT CHINESE ACCENTS
There’s no pool at Mandarin Oriental, Qianmen, but the Spa also manages to take wellness and fitness to another level. Traditional Chinese techniques and treatments are at the fore, especially in the Qiyuan Healing Space. Lasting two and a half hours, The Moonlight Dream package, for example, includes a warm body massage with moonstone, Gua Sha, then a profound and moving sound healing session.
If you can, coincide your visit with a residency by French massage maestro Jimmy Jarnet who visits throughout the year. Winner of countless awards and an official athlete masseur at the Paris Olympics, his treatments are like nothing else, combining breathwork and stretching to somehow give your body and mind a workout all at once. If Bastien Gonzalez has become known as a leader in luxury foot care, Jarnet is on track to do likewise for the world of massages.
UNFORGETTABLE EXPERIENCES
For suggestions on how to make the most of the hotel’s brilliant location, in the heart of the Beijing Central Axis which was recently designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site, then speak to Bob, the head concierge.
He grew up in the hutong, a two-minute walk from the hotel lobby, so knows the area like no one else – and proudly points out where he would play football on the rooftops. Just across the street from the hotel, the National Gift Museum shows a fascinating range of gifts given by foreign leaders to China from over the years, while the Temple of Heaven and Summer Palace are nearby.
Two brilliant experiences most stood out, however, starting with a guided electric bike tour of the Forbidden City and the myriad of hutongs. Effortless biking made for a slow-travel way to see some of the greatest sights, with stops whenever you wanted – and a few local bites along the way – coupled with insights and humour from your local guide.
Heading further afield, a one-on-one tai chi class on the Great Wall at Jinshanling marked a truly unforgettable travel experience. The two-hour drive each way is more than worth it for the stunning unspoilt scenery. The gentle hike up rewards you with uninterrupted views over multiple sections and watchtowers, before a tai chi master – perfectly bilingual in English and Mandarin – puts you through your paces as you get to live out a Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon moment with few equals.